Les 13 espèces ciblées de poissons d’Amérique du Sud. 
Catfish:
Le Cory “léopard” me semble le plus approprié au vu de cette fiche :
Corydoras sterbai
Sterba’s Cory
Classification
Callichthyidae. Subfamily: Corydoradinae
Distribution
Bolivia and Brazil. The type specimen was collected from the Rio Guaporé. It can be difficult to get hold of wild specimens these days, though. Virtually all of the fish entering the trade are produced commercially on farms. Most of the ones on sale in the UK originate from Eastern Europe or the Far East. These captive-bred fish are generally more hardy and adaptable than their wild counterparts, having been raised in conditions far removed from their natural habitat.
Habitat
Small tributaries, creeks, pools and areas of flooded forest.
Maximum Standard Length
2.6″ (6.5cm) il devient plutôt gros limitant son nombre à maximum 3 ou4…
Aquarium Size
A tank measuring 18″ x 12″ x 12″ (45cm x 30cm x 30cm) – 42.5 litres is big enough for a small group of these.
Maintenance
C. sterbai will thrive in a tank set up to replicate an Amazon biotope. This would be very simple to arrange. Use a substrate of river sand and add a few driftwood branches (if you can’t find driftwood of the desired shape, common beech is safe to use if thoroughly dried and stripped of bark) and twisted roots. A few handfuls of dried leaves (again beech can be used, or oak leaves are also suitable) would complete the natural feel. Aquatic plants are not a feature of this species‘ natural waters. Allow the wood and leaves to stain the water the colour of weak tea, removing old leaves and replacing them every few weeks so they don’t rot and foul the water. A small net bag filled with aquarium-safe peat can be added to the filter to aid in the simulation of black water conditions. Use fairly dim lighting.
Alternatively, it also does well in a more standard, preferably well-planted tank. A good maintenance regime is essential with this species as it’s sensitive to deteriorating water conditions. As with all corys, don’t use undergravel filtration and ensure the substrate is kept scrupulously clean. These cats are sensitive to poorly-maintained or dirty substrates and can lose their barbels if kept in poor conditions.
Water Conditions
Temperature: 75 to 82°C (24 to 28°C)
pH: 6.0 to 7.6
Hardness: 1 to 15°H
Diet
Omnivorous and easy to feed. Use a good quality sinking pellet or tablet as the staple diet. Supplement this with live and frozen foods such as Daphnia, Artemia, bloodworm and similar.
Behaviour and Compatibility
Very peaceful and suitable for many community tanks. Don’t keep it with anything very large or aggressive. Good tankmates include small characins, cyprinids, anabantoids, dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish. Always try to maintain Corydoras in groups as they’re far more confident and active in the presence of conspecifics. A group of at least six is best.
Sexual Dimorphism
Like most corys, it’s easily sexed when viewed from above. Females are noticeably rounder and broader-bodied than males, especially when full of eggs. They’re often also slightly larger.
Reproduction
Generally considered one of the easiest Corydoras tp spawn and a good choice for the beginner.
Set up the breeding tank (18″ x 12″ x 12″ or similar is a good size), with either a bare bottom, sand or finegravel substrate. Use air-powered sponge or box-type filtration as fry won’t be sucked into these and provide some clumps of vegetation such as java moss. A temperature of around 75°F and a pH of 6.5 should be fine. Filtering the water through peat is useful, as is the use of RO water.
It’s always better to have a higher ratio of males to females when breeding corys and 2 males per female is recommended. Condition the group on a varied diet of live, frozen and dried foods. When the females are visibly full of eggs perform a large (50-70%) water change with cooler water, and increase oxygenationand flow in the tank. Repeat this daily until the fish spawn.
It’s worth observing a couple of notes on general cory breeding at this point. Many species are seasonal spawners, breeding during the wet season in their native countries. This occurs at the same time of year as the UK winter, so if summer breeding attempts are failing, it may be worth waiting until winter before trying again. Additionally, it can take several years for certain species to become sexually mature, so be patient. Finally, different tactics may sometimes be required, such as timing of water changes, oxygenation levels etc. It’s also been suggested that the addition of water from a tank containing spawning or just spawned corys (this can be the same or a different species) may induce spawning behaviour in some of the more “difficult” species. It’s likely that this can be attributed to hormones released by the spawning fish acting as a chemical trigger. Basically, if you aren’t having any luck, don’t be afraid of trying different approaches.
If the fish decide to spawn, they will usually lay their eggs on the tank glass, often in an area where water flow is quite high. Spawning behaviour is characterised by an initial increase in activity and excitement, before males begin to actively pursue females. A receptive female will allow a male to caress her with his barbels, before the pair take up the classic “t-position”, in which the male grasps the females barbels between his pectoral fin and body. He then releases some sperm and it’s thought that this passes through the mouth and gills of the female, being directed towards her pelvic fins. These she uses to form a ‘basket’, into which she deposits a single egg (although up to 4 may be released). Once this is fertilised, she swims away to find a suitable place to deposit the egg, before the cycle is repeated. If you spawn the fish in a group situation, you will often see multiple males chasing a female as she goes to deposit an egg, in an effort to be the next chosen to fertilise them.
The adults will eat the eggs given the opportunity, so once spawning is complete you have a couple of choices. Either remove the adults and raise the brood in the same tank, or move the eggs and raise thefry elsewhere. If you decide to move the eggs, you’ll find they’re quite robust, and can usually be gently rolled up the glass with a finger. The new container should contain the same water as the spawning tankand be similarly well-oxygenated. Wherever you decide to hatch the eggs, it’s always best to add a few drops of methylene blue to the water to prevent fungussing. Even then, some eggs will probably fungus, and these should be removed as soon as they’re spotted in order to prevent the fungus spreading. Other options include adding an alder cone to the hatching container (these release various beneficial chemicals). Some hobbyists even use certain species of freshwater shrimp to pick any fungal spores from healthy eggs. Cherry shrimp, Neocardina heteropoda work well. These will eat diseased eggs, but leave healthy ones unharmed.
The eggs hatch in 3-5 days and once the fry have used up their yolk sacs, they’ll accept microworm andbrine shrimp nauplii as first foods. They seem to be less susceptible to disease when kept over a thin layer of sand, rather than in a bare-bottomed setup.
Notes
There are currently over 180 described species of Corydoras (commonly shortened to “cory”), making it one of the most speciose of all South American fish genera. There are also loads of undescribed species, many of which have been assigned a “C number” for identification purposes. This is a very simple system of numbering and is similar to the L number scheme used to identify undescribed Loricariids. Both systems were implemented by the German aquarium magazine DATZ (Die Aquarien und Terrarienzeitschrift), but have proved to be invaluable tools and are now used widely by aquarists worldwide. It’s partly this tremendousdiversity (along with their undeniably cute looks) that puts corys among the most popular fish in the hobby.
They’re also very peaceful aquarium residents. Although they’ll consume bite-sized items such as eggs or fry, aggression towards other species is virtually unheard of. Intraspecific hostility is similarly unusual, occurring in only a handful of species (mainly being confined to the “long-nosed” varieties). Provided space isn’t an issue this rarely results in physical damage, though. In nature most species occur in large schools and as such do best when kept in a group in captivity.
Most corys are primarily benthic (bottom dwelling), although a handful of exceptions do spend the majority of their time in open water. Unfortunately this behaviour often means that they’re purchased and sold as scavengers that will “clean the bottom” of your community tank. While they’ll certainly polish off any uneaten morsels that reach the substrate, they won’t keep the substrate “clean” as such. In fact maintenance of the substrate becomes more of a primary concern if your tank contains a few corys, as they can develop nasty infections of the barbels if kept in dirty or otherwise unfavourable conditions. It should also be said that they won’t do well if expected to survive on the scraps of food that escape the fish above. Always use sinking varieties to ensure your corys receive the right amount of food.
All corys are facultative air breathers, meaning they have the ability to breathe atmospheric air to a certain extent if necessary. They possess a modified, highly vascularised intestine to aid in the uptake of atmospheric oxygen. This adaptation allows them to survive if their habitat becomes oxygen-deprived for any reason. In the aquarium you’ll see them darting to the surface to take in gulps of air on occasion. This is perfectly natural and no cause for concern unless water conditions are deteriorating, in which case the frequency of visits to the surface will usually rise correspondingly.
Corys are part of the “armoured” catfish group, and instead of scales possess two rows of bony plates running along the flanks. The genus name is composed of the Greek words cory, meaning helmet anddoras, meaning skin (here used incorrectly to denote “armour”). They also have very sharp pectoral finspines, which are easily caught in the mesh of aquarium nets and can also produce a painful “sting” if they penetrate the skin. Care should therefore be exercised when handling or moving corys for any reason.
This popular, attractive species is superficially similar to C. haraldschultzi, but can be distinguished by examining the patterning on the head of the fish in question. In C. sterbai this is composed of light spotted markings over a dark background, whereas in C. haraldschultzi the markings are dark and the background colour light. C. haraldschultzi also has a more elongated snout.
In recent years a commercially-produced albino form has become available and achieved a fair degree of popularity in the hobby.
Nom scientifique  |
Corydoras sterbai |
| Descripteur |
Knaack, 1962 |
| Famille |
Callichthyidés |
| Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) |
- Corydoras de Sterba (Fra)
- Orangeflossen Panzerwels (All)
- Sterbas Panzerwels (All)
|
|
|
| Taille |
Mâle : 5.0 cm, Femelle : 5.0 cm |
| Origine |
Amérique du sud: Brésil (Rio Guapore), et Bolivie. |
| Température |
24 °C à 28 °C, 24 °C pour la reproduction |
| pH |
6.5 à 7.0, 7.0 pour la reproduction |
| Dureté |
2 °d GH à 15 °d GH, 7 °d GH pour la reproduction |
| Zone de vie |
Fond |
| Description |
La couleur est plutôt gris/sombre avec 7 ou 8 bandes de taches blanches du front à la pédoncule caudale. Les nageoires pectorales et ventrales sont oranges. |
| Espérance de vie |
5 à 7 ans |
| Comportement |
Poisson très pacifique qui aime vivre en groupe. Un groupe de 6 individus peut être hébergé dans un 120 litres. Choisissez un substrat adapté car les Corydoras passent la majeur partie de leur temps à fouiller inlassablement le sol avec leurs barbillons à la recherche de nourriture. En règle générale ils acceptent tout ce qui leur est proposé, que ce soient des aliments lyophilisés ou des aliments congelés. Mais l’idéal est de leur offrir des vers Grindal ou des enchytrées vivants, ils en raffolent. Dans la nature, ces poissons fouillent le sol à la recherche de petites larves. Le sable de quartz et la pouzzolane sont donc totalement proscrits. Corydoras Sterbai cohabite très bien avec les petits Characidés (néons,Hemmigramus…) ainsi qu’avec des Cichlidés nains Apistogramma Cacatuoides. Pour le décor, pensez à utiliser des racines de tourbière, qui permettent à vos hôtes de se réfugier ou tout simplement de se sentir en sécurité. Évitez une lumière directe trop forte. Pour cela placez quelque brins des plantes qui se multiplient facilement dans les aquariums, offrant une lumière tamisée souvent recherchée des poissons. |
| Reproduction |
Mettez une femelle et 2 mâles dans un aquarium d’une trentaine de litres. Comme tous les Corydoras la femelle commence à inspecter l’aquarium et s’active sur quelques points particuliers . La parade en T suit la simulation de la saison des pluies par changement d’eau conséquent d’une température de 3°C inférieure à la température du bac. Le mâle se positionne perpendiculairement à sa partenaire qui conserve ses ovules entres ses nageoires anales pendant que le mâle émet sa laitance. Elle se dirige ensuite vers la feuille d’une plante ou contre la vitre, et tout en pressant son corps, elle colle les œufs contre le support. Une fois la ponte terminée, retirez les parents qui ne sont plus d’aucune utilité.Nourrir largement avec des vers de vases vivants ou congelés ou alors avec des pastilles pour poissons de fond ou encore simplement des granulés des poissons d’ornement qui tombent au fond.
Ideal water parameters for Sterbai Corydoras
Soft to moderately hard (hardness to 15 dGH), acidic to slightly basic (pH to 7.6) water, temperature 24-28C/75-82F. Most fish will now be commercially raised and suited to the given parameters; wild-caught fish require soft, acidic water.
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/sterbai-corydoras/#ixzz2WlIuTr1Z |
Début juillet ce seront mes 2 “poissons test 1” en tout 6 à 8 Corys… plus peut-être un ou deux poissons-chats Plecos… Soit 8 à 10 poissons de fond
Corydoras griseus 3cm
Corydoras griseus
Classification
Callichthyidae. Subfamily Corydoradinae
Distribution
Guyana and Brazil.
Habitat
No exact information available.
Maximum Standard Length
2″ (5cm).
Aquarium Size
18″ x 15″ x 12″ (45cm x 37.5cm x 30cm) – 50 litres.
Maintenance
Use a substrate of fine sand and provide shelter in the form of smooth rocks and chunks of bogwood. Areas of thick planting are also appreciated, as is the provision of some floating cover. Also provide some surface turbulence and flow, as it prefers well-oxygenated water. As with all corys, don’t use undergravel filtration, and ensure the substrate is kept scrupulously clean. These catfish are sensitive to poorly-maintained or dirty substrates and can lose their barbels if kept in poor conditions.
Water Conditions
Temperature: 72-79°F (22-26°C)
pH: 6.0 – 7.2
Hardness: 3-15°H
Diet
Will accept most sinking dried foods, as well as small live and frozen varieties such as bloodworm, brine shrimp and chopped earthworm. Feeding a varied diet will ensure the fish are in the best condition.
Behaviour and Compatibility
Very peaceful and suitable for many community tanks. Don’t keep it with anything very large or aggressive. Good tankmates include small characins, cyprinids, anabantoids, dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish. Always try to maintain Corydoras in groups as they’re far more confident and active in the presence of conspecifics. A group of at least 6 individuals is suggested.
Sexual Dimorphism
Like most corys, C. griseus is most easily sexed when viewed from above. Females are noticeably rounder and broader-bodied than females, especially when full of eggs.
Reproduction
No captive breeding information is available, but it has been achieved. It can probably be bred in a similar fashion to many other Corydoras species.
Set up the breeding tank (18″ x 12″ x 12″ or similar is a good size), with either a bare bottom, sand or finegravel substrate. Use air-powered sponge or box-type filtration as fry won’t be sucked into these and provide some clumps of vegetation such as java moss. A temperature of around 75°F and a pH of 6.5-7 should be fine. It’s always better to have a higher ratio of males to females when breeding corys and 2 males per female is recommended. Condition the group on a varied diet of live, frozen and dried foods. When the females are visibly full of eggs perform a large (50-70%) water change with cooler water, and increaseoxygenation and flow in the tank. Repeat this daily until the fish spawn.
It’s worth observing a couple of notes on general cory breeding at this point. Many species are seasonal spawners, breeding during the wet season in their native countries. This occurs at the same time of year as the UK winter, so if summer breeding attempts are failing, it may be worth waiting until winter before trying again. Also, some species can take several years to become sexually mature, so be patient. Finally somespecies simply require different tactics, including timing of water changes, oxygenation levels etc. If you aren’t having any luck, don’t be afraid of trying different approaches.
If the fish decide to spawn, they will usually lay their eggs on the tank glass, often in an area where water flow is quite high. Spawning behaviour is characterised by an initial increase in activity and excitement, before males begin to actively pursue females. A receptive female will allow a male to caress her with his barbels, before the pair take up the classic “t-position”, in which the male grasps the females barbels between his pectoral fin and body. He then releases some sperm and it’s thought that this passes through the mouth and gills of the female, being directed towards her pelvic fins. These she uses to form a ‘basket’, into which she deposits a single egg (although up to 4 may be released). Once this is fertilised, she swims away to find a suitable place to deposit the egg, before the cycle is repeated. If you spawn the fish in a group situation, you will often see multiple males chasing a female as she goes to deposit an egg, in an effort to be the next chosen to fertilise eggs.
The adults will eat their spawn given the opportunity, so once spawning is complete you have 2 choices. Either remove the adults and raise the brood in the same tank, or move the eggs and raise the fryelsewhere. If you decide to move the eggs, you’ll find they’re quite robust, and can usually be gently rolled up the glass with a finger. The new container should contain the same water as the spawning tank and be similarly well-oxygenated. Wherever you decide to hatch the eggs, it’s always best to add a few drops ofmethylene blue to the water to prevent fungussing. Even then some eggs will probably fungus, and these should be removed as soon as they’re spotted in order to prevent the fungus spreading. The eggs hatch in 3-4 days and once the fry have used up their yolk sacs, they will accept microworm and brine shrimp nauplii as first foods. The fry seem to be less susceptible to disease when kept over a thin layer ofsand, as opposed to in a bare-bottomed setup.
Notes
There are currently over 180 described species of Corydoras (commonly shortened to “cory”), making it one of the most speciose of all South American fish genera. There are also loads of undescribed species, many of which have been assigned a “C number” for identification purposes. This is a very simple system of numbering and is similar to the L number scheme used to identify undescribed Loricariids. Both systems were implemented by the German aquarium magazine DATZ (Die Aquarien und Terrarienzeitschrift), but have proved to be invaluable tools and are now used widely by aquarists worldwide. It’s partly this tremendousdiversity (along with their undeniably cute looks) that puts corys among the most popular fish in the hobby.
They’re also very peaceful aquarium residents. Although they’ll consume bite-sized items such as eggs orfry, aggression towards other species is virtually unheard of. Intraspecific hostility is similarly unusual, occurring in only a handful of species (mainly being confined to the “long-nosed” varieties). Provided space isn’t an issue this rarely results in physical damage, though. In nature most species occur in large schools and as such do best when kept in a group in captivity.
Most corys are primarily benthic (bottom dwelling), although a handful of exceptions do spend the majority of their time in open water. Unfortunately this behaviour often means that they’re often purchased and sold as scavengers that will “clean the bottom” of your community tank. While they’ll certainly polish off any uneaten morsels that reach the substrate, they won’t keep the substrate “clean” as such. In fact maintenance of the substrate becomes more of a primary concern if your tank contains a few corys, as they can develop nasty infections of the barbels if kept in dirty or otherwise unfavourable conditions. It should also be said that they won’t do well if expected to survive on the scraps of food that escape the fish above. Always use sinking varieties to ensure your corys receive the right amount of food.
All corys are facultative air breathers, meaning they have the ability to breathe atmospheric air to a certain extent if necessary. They possess a modified, highly vascularised intestine to aid in the uptake of atmospheric oxygen. This adaptation allows them to survive if their habitat becomes oxygen-deprived for any reason. In the aquarium you’ll see them darting to the surface to take in gulps of air on occasion. This is perfectly natural and no cause for concern unless water conditions are deteriorating, in which case the frequency of visits to the surface will usually rise correspondingly.
Corys are part of the “armoured” catfish group, and instead of scales possess two rows of bony plates running along the flanks. The genus name is composed of the Greek words cory, meaning helmet and doras, meaning skin (here used incorrectly to denote “armour”). They also have very sharp pectoral finspines, which are easily caught in the mesh of aquarium nets and can also produce a painful “sting” if they penetrate the skin. Care should therefore be exercised when handling or moving corys for any reason.
This is not a particularly common species in the hobby, but is imported occasionally.
| Nom scientifique |
Corydoras hastatus |
| Descripteur |
Eigenmann & Eigenmann 1888 |
| Famille |
Callichthyidés |
| Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) |
- Corydoras australe (Sci)
- Corydoras à croissant (Fra)
- Corydoras pygmée (Fra)
- Dwarf Corydoras (Ang)
- piqmy corydoras (Ang)
- Sichelfleck-Panzerwels (All)
|
|
|
| Taille |
Mâle : 3.0 cm, Femelle : 3.0 cm
Ideal water parameters for Dwarf Cory
Soft to moderately hard (hardness to 15 dGH but preferably below 8 dGH) acidic to slightly basic (pH to 7.2) water, temperature 22-26C/71-79F. Long-term it does better in soft, acidic water. Prefers quiet water without strong currents.
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/dwarf-cory/#ixzz2WlJVz9iY |
| Origine |
Amérique du Sud, Brésil, Etat d’Amazonas. Mato Grosso dans le Rio paraguai; Paraguay dans les affluents du Rio Pilcomayo. |
| Température |
20 °C à 24 °C |
| pH |
5.8 à 6.8 |
| Dureté |
3 °d GH à 15 °d GH |
| Zone de vie |
Fond |
| Description |
Corydoras hastatus est un des plus petits Corydoras avec C. habrosus et C. pygmaeus. Corps gris avec une tache noire délimitée par deux taches blanches en haut et en bas de la nageoire caudale. |
| Espérance de vie |
|
| Comportement |
A maintenir en groupe. Le sol doit être exempt d’arrête qui peuvent blesser ses barbillons. Alimentation difficile: il n’accepte que de toutes petites proies vivantes. A introduire dans des aquariums matures bien pourvus en mousses et Riccia ainsi qu’en racines. La micro-faune qui s’y développe lui sert de nourriture. Un des rares corydoras qui nage la plupart du temps en pleine eau. |
| Reproduction |
Déjà reproduit en aquarium. La ponte a lieu en position perpendiculaire. Env. 30 oeufs déposés individuellement sur les éléments du décors et aux vitres. |
| Dimorphisme |
Dimorphisme sexuel inexistant.
Ideal water parameters for Panda Corydoras
Soft to moderately hard (hardness up to 12 dGH), acidic to slightly basic (pH to 7.5) water, temperature 20-26C/70-79F. Wild-caught fish require temperatures at the lower end of this range; tank-raised fish do not last long above the upper end.
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/panda-corydoras/#ixzz2WlI4B9OG |
Corydoras panda 
Corydoras panda
Panda Cory
Classification
Callichthyidae. Subfamily: Corydoradinae
Distribution
Native to parts of the upper Amazon in Peru. You’ll find it difficult to get hold of wild specimens these days, though. Virtually all of the fish entering the trade are produced commercially on farms. Most of the ones on sale in the UK originate from Eastern Europe or the Far East. These captive-bred fish are generally more hardy and adaptable than their wild counterparts, having been raised in conditions far removed from their natural habitat.
Habitat
Inhabits both clear and blcakwater streams and tributaries, often flowing over sandy substrates. Many of these are fed with meltwater run-off from the snow-capped Andean mountains at certain points in the year. At these times the flow rate increases and the water temperature can be quite low (to around 66°F (19°C).
Maximum Standard Length
2″ (5cm), although usually a little smaller.
Aquarium Size
A tank measuring 18″ x 12″ x 12″ (45cm x 30cm x 30cm) – 42.5 litres is adequate for a small group of these.
Maintenance
C. panda will thrive in a tank set up to replicate an Amazon biotope. This would be very simple to arrange. Use a substrate of river sand and add a few driftwood branches (if you can’t find driftwood of the desired shape, common beech is safe to use if thoroughly dried and stripped of bark) and twisted roots. A few handfuls of dried leaves (again beech can be used, or oak leaves are also suitable) would complete the natural feel. Aquatic plants are not a feature of this species‘ natural waters. Allow the wood and leaves to stain the water the colour of weak tea, removing old leaves and replacing them every few weeks so they don’t rot and foul the water. A small net bag filled with aquarium-safe peat can be added to the filter to aid in the simulation of black water conditions. Use fairly dim lighting.
Alternatively, it also does well in a more standard, preferably well-planted tank. A good maintenance regime is essential with this species as it’s sensitive to deteriorating water conditions. As with all corys, don’t use undergravel filtration and ensure the substrate is kept scrupulously clean. These cats are sensitive to poorly-maintained or dirty substrates and can lose their barbels if kept in poor conditions.
Water Conditions
Temperature: Wild fish prefer lower temperatures but tank-bred specimens are happy over the range 72 to 77°F (22 to 25°C). It won’t do well if kept in warmer water than this long-term, with the likelihood its lifespan will be reduced considerably.
pH: 6.0 to 7.4
Hardness: 1 to 12°H
Diet
Omnivorous and easy to feed. Use a good quality sinking pellet or tablet as the staple diet. Supplement this with live and frozen foods such as Daphnia, Artemia, bloodworm and similar.
Behaviour and Compatibility
Very peaceful and suitable for many community tanks. Don’t keep it with anything very large or aggressive. Good tankmates include small characins, cyprinids, anabantoids, dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish. Always try to maintain Corydoras in groups as they’re far more confident and active in the presence of conspecifics. A group of at least six is best.
Sexual Dimorphism
Best sexed from above female will have more rounded belly and is likely to be slightly larger.
Reproduction
Can be bred in a similar fashion to many other Corydoras species.
Set up the breeding tank (18″ x 12″ x 12″ or similar is a good size), with either a bare bottom, sand or finegravel substrate. Use air-powered sponge or box-type filtration as fry won’t be sucked into these and provide some clumps of vegetation such as java moss. A temperature of around 75°F and a pH of 6.5 should be fine. Filtering the water through peat is useful, as is the use of RO water.
It’s always better to have a higher ratio of males to females when breeding corys and 2 males per female is recommended. Condition the group on a varied diet of live, frozen and dried foods. When the females are visibly full of eggs perform a large (50-70%) water change with cooler water, and increase oxygenationand flow in the tank. Repeat this daily until the fish spawn.
It’s worth observing a couple of notes on general cory breeding at this point. Many species are seasonal spawners, breeding during the wet season in their native countries. This occurs at the same time of year as the UK winter, so if summer breeding attempts are failing, it may be worth waiting until winter before trying again. Additionally, it can take several years for certain species to become sexually mature, so be patient. Finally, different tactics may sometimes be required, such as timing of water changes, oxygenation levels etc. If you aren’t having any luck, don’t be afraid of trying different approaches.
If the fish decide to spawn, they will usually lay their eggs on the tank glass, often in an area where water flow is quite high. Spawning behaviour is characterised by an initial increase in activity and excitement, before males begin to actively pursue females. A receptive female will allow a male to caress her with his barbels, before the pair take up the classic “t-position”, in which the male grasps the females barbels between his pectoral fin and body. He then releases some sperm and it’s thought that this passes through the mouth and gills of the female, being directed towards her pelvic fins. These she uses to form a ‘basket’, into which she deposits a single egg (although up to 4 may be released). Once this is fertilised, she swims away to find a suitable place to deposit the egg, before the cycle is repeated. If you spawn the fish in a group situation, you will often see multiple males chasing a female as she goes to deposit an egg, in an effort to be the next chosen to fertilise them.
The adults will eat the eggs given the opportunity, so once spawning is complete you have a couple of choices. Either remove the adults and raise the brood in the same tank, or move the eggs and raise thefry elsewhere. If you decide to move the eggs, you’ll find they’re quite robust, and can usually be gently rolled up the glass with a finger. The new container should contain the same water as the spawning tankand be similarly well-oxygenated. Wherever you decide to hatch the eggs, it’s always best to add a few drops of methylene blue to the water to prevent fungussing. Even then, some eggs will probably fungus, and these should be removed as soon as they’re spotted in order to prevent the fungus spreading. Other options include adding an alder cone to the hatching container (these release various beneficial chemicals). Some hobbyists even use certain species of freshwater shrimp to pick any fungal spores from healthy eggs. Cherry shrimp, Neocardina heteropoda work well. These will eat diseased eggs, but leave healthy ones unharmed.
The eggs hatch in 3-5 days and once the fry have used up their yolk sacs, they’ll accept microworm andbrine shrimp nauplii as first foods. They seem to be less susceptible to disease when kept over a thin layer of sand, rather than in a bare-bottomed setup.
| Nom scientifique |
Corydoras panda |
| Descripteur |
Nijssen & Isbrücker, 1971 |
| Famille |
Callichthyidés |
| Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) |
- Corydoras panda (Fra)
- poisson-chat panda (Fra)
- Panda corydoras (Ang)
- Pandapanzerwels (All)
|
|
|
| Taille |
Mâle : 4.0 cm, Femelle : 6.0 cm |
| Origine |
Amérique du Sud, Pérou |
| Température |
22 °C à 25 °C, 22 °C pour la reproduction |
| pH |
6.0 à 7.0 |
| Dureté |
1 °d GH à 8 °d GH |
| Zone de vie |
Fond |
| Description |
Le corps est constitué de plaques osseuses articulées. Sa bouche est encadrée de barbillons et ses nageoires pectorales et dorsales sont munies d’épines. La robe est blanche ou beige rosé avec une tache noire sur l’œil, une autre sur la nageoire dorsale et la dernière sur la caudale d’où son nom.Ces corydoras sont légèrement plus petits que les autres. |
| Espérance de vie |
De 4 à 5 ans. |
| Comportement |
Poisson grégaire, à maintenir impérativement en groupe de 6 au minimum. Ce petit omnivore fouille le sol à la recherche de nourriture, ce qui donne l’impression qu’il ne cesse de faire le pitre entre deux période de calme. Très pacifique avec les autres occupants de l’aquarium. Il les ignore en fait. |
| Reproduction |
Comme les autres corydoras avec un stimulus: changement d’eau ou de température avec nourriture vivante. Attention! Les oeufs sont déposés dans les plantes plutôt que sur une vitre du bac. |
| Dimorphisme |
La femelle est plus grande et plus arrondie que le mâle dont les nageoires pectorales sont plus pointues. |
Puis j’ajouterai un banc de poisson tels que (6) néons: Au mois d’aout ce seront mes “3-6 poissons test 2” si tout va bien après les corys… ces 6 néons formeront donc le “test 2” 
| Nom scientifique |
Paracheirodon innesi |
| Descripteur |
Myers, 1936 |
| Famille |
Characidés |
| Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) |
- Hyphessobrycon innesi (Sci)
- Paracheirodon innesi (Sci)
- Tétra bleu (Sci)
- cardinal (Fra)
- Neon (Fra)
- Néon (Fra)
- Néon bleu (Fra)
- néon bleu (Fra)
- Néon Tétra (Fra)
- Tétra-Néon (Fra)
- Neontetra (All)
- Schleier-Neontetra (All)
- sralll (All)
|
|
|
| Taille |
Mâle : 4.0 cm, Femelle : 4.0 cm |
| Origine |
Pérou, Colombie et Brésil. |
| Température |
20 °C à 24 °C, 24 °C pour la reproduction |
| pH |
6.0 à 7.0, 6.0 pour la reproduction
Ideal water parameters for Neon Tetra
Soft (less than 4 dGH) and slightly acidic (pH less than 7.0), temperature 20-25C/68-78F.
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/neon-tetra/#ixzz2WlKB2SMk |
| Dureté |
2 °d GH à 10 °d GH, 2 °d GH pour la reproduction |
| Zone de vie |
Milieu |
| Description |
Petit poisson au dos bleu et au ventre rouge (le rouge s’arrète au milieu du corps…contrairement au cardinalis).A noter qu’il existe une version “Diamant” de ce poisson,qui n’est qu’une variante chromatique non naturelle. |
| Espérance de vie |
> 5 ans |
| Comportement |
Poisson gregaire, a maintenir absolument en groupe (par banc de 10 minimum, et bien plus si possible… ). C’est pourquoi un bac de 80 cm de façade est conseillé.Préfère le milieu et le fond d’un aquarium ayant une végétation dense.Les néons nagent calmement dans le bac, en se dispersant. Ces derniers se regroupent s’ils sont stressés ou effrayés.C’est une espèce assez fragile du coeur : il convient d’être soigneux lors de leur acclimatation, et de leur éviter tout stress intense car ils peuvent alors faire une crise cardiaque. |
| Reproduction |
Ce poisson est un ovipare et ne se reproduit pas en bac d’ensemble, prevoyez un petit bac, inserez le soir un couple. Ils se reproduisent le matin après une parade. Les oeufs sont lucifuges. Le couple fraie au dessus des plantes, on le retire après la ponte pour ne pas que les parents dévorent les oeufs. Eclosion en 24 heures, nage libre en 5 jours. Une ponte donne entre 70 et 250 petits. Après 14 jours, les jeunes se colorent en rouge et entre 18 et 21 jours on voit apparaitre la bande longitudinale bleu-vert brillante. |
| Dimorphisme |
Le male est plus svelte que la femelle qui a un ventre rebondi. La barre “néon” bleue de la femelle est moins rectiligne que celle du mâle. |
Description de Paracheirodon simulans, Faux-Néon, Néon vert
Le Faux-
Néon Paracheirodon simulans a été découvert en 1963, en Suisse, dans un arrivage de Néons-Rouges
P. axelrodi en provenance de Manaus. Les deux espèces se ressemblent beaucoup et proviennent des mêmes biotopes (moyen Rio Negro), mais le faux-néon est extrêmement rare, dans une proportion que l’on peut évaluer à 1 Faux-Néon pour plus de 1 000 Néons Cardinalis.
Ideal water parameters for Green Neon Tetra
Soft (less than 4 dGH) and acidic (pH 6.0 or below) water essential for long-term health, temperature 23-27C/73-81F. This species is sometimes found in the same waters as the cardinal tetra (termed sympatric) and both fish share identical water parameter requirements.
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/green-neon-tetra/#ixzz2WlKYgv00
Le micro\-poisson Paracheirodon simulans diffère des précédentes espèces, néon cardinalis et néon bleu par certains caractères anatomiques (principalement les dents), mais très peu par la coloration : il faut un oeil exercé pour le distinguer du Néon rouge Paracheirodon axelrodi, et encore plus du tétra Néon bleu Paracheirodon innesi. Toutefois, la bande brillante, presque toujours franchement bleue (parfois tirant sur le violet) et rarement avec des reflets verts, est plus basse que chez les Néons des deux espèces : elle occupe la moitié supérieure du pédicule caudal, laissant ainsi moins de place à la coloration rouge qui est, de toute façon, moins intense vers l’avant que chez le Néon rouge. Il est vraisemblable que le Faux-Néon, vivant parmi les bancs de Néons rouges, a les mêmes exigences écologiques. Il est probable que la reproduction s’exerce au même moment et suivant des modalités comparables, mais aucune preuve n’en a été donnée. Quant à la ressemblance du Faux-Néon avec le « vrai », la meilleure explication qui puisse en être donnée est celle du mimétisme, l’espèce qui « mime », très rare, trouvant un intérêt à ressembler aux Néons et à se mêler à ceux-ci. Dans ces conditions, et étant donné l’opacité de l’eau, les deux sexes d’une espèce rare ont plus de chance de se rencontrer s’ils fréquentent les mêmes associations animales que s’ils sont isolés chacun dans une portion du cours d’eau. L’avantage est particulièrement grand au moment de la migration vers l’amont en vue de la reproduction, à condition que, au moment de la recherche du partenaire sexuel, des signaux de reconnaissance plus spécifiques, plus fins, prennent le relais des signaux généraux (bande bleue et partie inférieure rouge). Très approximativement, on peut comparer cela au rendez-vous que deux personnes se donnent sous l’horloge de la gare Saint-Lazare à la sortie des bureaux : là, malgré la foule dense, ils sont sûrs de se rencontrer. Les biologistes appellent ce comportement – pour l’instant, encore à l’état d’hypothèse – « mimétisme social ». Enfin, pour les trois espèces, le fait de réfléchir la lumière est probablement en rapport avec le biotope. Pour une espèce de pleine eau, vivant en bancs, la cohésion nécessaire est essentiellement visuelle. Là où la visibilité ne dépasse pas quelques dizaines de centimètres, la bande irisée permet aux bancs de Poissons de se reconnaître. On remarquera que de nombreuses espèces, partageant généralement le biotope des Néons, ont de tels signaux Cataphotes : parfois sur l’iris ou les flancs (Poecilocharax weitzmani, Hyphessobrycon heterorhabdus, Hemigrammus erythrozonus), le plus souvent sur le pédicule caudal (Moenkhausia oligolepis, le feux-de-position Hemigrammus ocellifer, Hemigrammus pulcher, Axelrodia stigmatias, etc.). Tous ces amas de cristaux de guanine orientés ont probablement la même fonction : créer un signal brillant visible dans une eau brune, et dans la pénombre, à au moins 20 ou 30 cm. On n’a pu encore découvrir quel avantage présentait la couleur rouge de la partie postéro-inférieure, pour les trois espèces. La ressemblance entre le tétra Néon et le Néon rouge fait penser à une association mimétique, comme dans le cas du Néon rouge avec le Faux-Néon. Il est permis de penser que les deux espèces ont autrefois cohabité et que, secondairement, elles ont été séparées par un accident géologique.
Fiche de maintenance détaillée de Paracheirodon simulans
Qualité de l’eau :
pH : 5,5 à 6,5 Dureté : 1 à 10 dGH température : 23 à 28 °C
Cohabitation et comportement :
A conserver en banc d’une dizaine d’individus dans un aquarium de petit volume, typiquement un nano\-aquarium mais pas en pico\-aquarium car un banc prend quand même de la place. Il faut éviter de l’associer aux autres espèces de Néons afin d’éviter toute hybridation.
Alimentation et nourriture :
Franchement omnivore, comme tout petit tétra, le faux-Néon ne pose aucun souci, comme micro-prédateur dans l’alimentation.
Lire plus: http://www.aquaportail.com/fiche-poisson-741-paracheirodon-simulans.html#ixzz2Vxwl8eVm
dans mes bacs de “scus” sauvages je maintiens (bien que cela ne soit pas très biotope) des red cherry ainsi que des macrobrachiums dayanums 
et ce sans problème (ce serait même le contraire, elles se reproduisent comme des lapins). 
Ce sera le dernier stade et l’aquarium au 4 cinquième rempli aura environ 70 litres pour environ 25 petits poissons et crevettes. Enfin dans l’idéal… Voici une liste de poissons qui n’ont pas besoin de trop d’espace car mon riparium en un sens est un nano aquarium puisque malgré ses 70 litres il ne fait que 30cm de large et 40 de long … pour 70 de haut. c’est un bac colonne bien plus esthétique que l’aquarium habituel. (Je crois que si je devais avoir un aquarium tout en longueur je trouverais un bac beaucoup plus long que la normale ce sera peut-être ma prochaine expérience. Mais il faut plus d’espace.) 
Pour l’instant voici la suite de la liste prise sur http://fishaliciousfish.blogspot.hu/2007/08/perfect-fish-for-nano.html (avec la taille adulte du poisson). Dans cette liste je choisirai les plus colorés ou les plus étranges qui sont à l’origine d’Amérique du Sud:
Nannostomus mortenthaleri 3cm
| Nom scientifique |
Nannostomus mortenthaleri |
| Descripteur |
Paepke & Arendt, 2001 |
| Famille |
Lebiasinidés |
| Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) |
- Nannostomus marginatus mortenthaleri (Sci)
- coral-red (Ang)
- red pencilfish (Ang)
|
|
|
| Taille |
Mâle : 4.0 cm, Femelle : 4.0 cm |
| Origine |
Pérou,province de Mayanas,département de Loreto,affluents du rio Nanay. |
| Température |
25 °C à 28 °C, 27 °C pour la reproduction |
| pH |
5.0 à 6.5, 6.0 pour la reproduction
Ideal water parameters for Coral Red Pencilfish
Soft (hardness below 10 dGH) acidic (pH below 7.0) water, temperature 24-28C/75-82F. Preferred ranges are less than 5 dGH and 5-6.5 in pH. pH values for the Rio Nanay system are below 6, averaging 5.2 to 5.5.
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/coral-red-pencilfish/#ixzz2WlLPiuHo |
| Dureté |
1 °d GH à 10 °d GH, 5 °d GH pour la reproduction |
| Zone de vie |
Milieu |
| Description |
L’espèce ressemble beaucoup au marginatus.Les mortenthaleri sont beaucoup plus rouges. |
| Espérance de vie |
??? |
| Comportement |
Les mâles sont assez territoriaux et paradent très souvent pour s’intimider(les femelles le font aussi parfois, cependant jamais de casse.Si on retire le mâle dominant,qui est plus rouge que les autres,immédiatement, un autre devient écarlate.Ils ignorent les autres especes.Essentiellement carnivores,ils rafolent de drosophiles,vers de vase et artemias.Je les vois regulierement attraper les bestioles(acariens et autres)qui vivent sur les decors au dessus de la surface,ils doivent avoir une tres bonne vue pour attraper ces petites proies a 2ou3 mm de la surface. |
| Reproduction |
Déjà réussie,proies vivantes de très petite taille surement nécessaires(infusoires…) Probablement un protocole similaire à celui des characidés . Pas encore de données personnelles. |
Nome Popular: Peixe Lapis Vermelho Nome Cientifico: Nannostomus mortenthaleri Tamanho: 3cm Origem: Peru pH: 6,8 Aquario: 40L Temperatura: 25ºC
Ajouter
Riparium, GREEN SUN / Soleil Vert 